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Monday, February 15, 2016

New Printer Shelving Unit and Super Easy Under-the-Bed Storage Drawer How-tos, Plus a few inspiration ideas!

Anyone that knows me, knows that I'm always re-decorating, re-arranging and re-organizing. No surprise, but I had to do it again after the Holiday Open House, just so I could get to the desk in my office. Seriously, I had moved so much stuff into the office that I barely could get in there to do anything! So, I pulled everything out that I knew wasn't going to stay in there and started looking at what was left. The next thing I knew, I had completely re-decorated my office.... again!

My first project was new storage for my printers. I had four printers, (don't ask!) on a 6 foot long by 2 foot deep, 2 shelf, cart, that took up way too much of my floor space. In order to maximize my space, I needed to go up, not out, with my printer storage. So, I poked around in my shop, taking a mental inventory of my lumber stash, and saw that I had 4, antique, solid wood, 8' doors, that were only 23 inches wide. Perfect!!

A quick and easy solution to my printer storage space problem!



Here's how I did it.
My supplies: I used two of my 8 foot doors, some scrap 3/4" plywood, 20 "L" brackets, and some dark walnut stain to make my new printer shelving unit. A good rule of thumb is to try using what you have on hand before you go buy anything, get creative, think outside of the box!

Just cut out however many shelves you need, to the width and depth that you want your unit to be. I needed five shelves. Then, because I wanted the back of my unit to be open, so that I could manage the wires easily, I cut three extra pieces, wide enough to attach to both doors, to brace the back of the unit, so it would be rigid and not sway or lean from side to side. I stained all the cut pieces and allowed them to dry before putting anything together. Then, I measured and marked the height placement for each shelf on both of the doors and installed the "L" brackets to the doors. Then one by one attached the shelves. Last but not least I added the three braces on the back of the unit, one at the top, then the bottom and then the middle. I stood the unit up, put it in place and loaded all of the printers on it. Now I could have done a lot of things that I didn't do, like add edging to the plywood shelves, or moldings to make the piece look more polished, but I'm going for a more rustic look and mine works for me. But if you want to add more to yours... go for it! I have definitely increased my available floor space. And it is easily adjustable if I find that I need to make changes in the future.

I wanted to add a twin sized bed to my office layout, and the only way I could justify the floor space that a bed would take up, is if I could still have some sort of storage.

In my previous post, Homemade Bed Risers, I showed you how I made the bed risers for this bed, which was the second project in this makeover.

Here is a photo of my bed risers, and my Pull-out storage drawer.



By making the bed risers, I accomplished several things, one of which was giving myself the extra space under the bed I needed in order to have a pull-out storage drawer that would actually have room in it to store something. Now, you may have seen other posts using a dresser drawer as the under the bed storage pull-out, but, what if you don't have an already-made-drawer sitting around, that's just the size you need? So, I want to show you how easy it is to make a storage drawer for under the bed that works for you. Then you can decide how you make yours.

My third project was the Under the bed Pull-out storage drawer. Here is how I made that.

First I measured the space I had between the risers, and the new height space I now had under the bed. Keep in mind the height of any hardware or wheels that you may add. Then I went to my lumber stash and pulled out the pieces I needed.


Using my scrap 3/4 inch plywood, I measured and marked each piece the length I needed.
The large piece was already 2 feet across, so I didn't have to cut that. I used the miter saw to cut the narrow strips for the sides of my storage drawer, and I used a circular saw to cut the wide bottom piece of the drawer. 


Once I had all the pieces cut to the size that I needed, I used my "Kreg" Jig, (that I love) to pre-drill the side boards. If you don't have a "Kreg" Jig, you still need to mark your boards, and pre-drill them so that you don't split your wood.


Most people would attach the side boards to the edge of the plywood. I attached mine to the top of the plywood because, first, I wanted the extra depth inside the drawer, and second, I would be covering the front of the drawer with another piece of wood, so you wouldn't see the edge of the plywood.



Attach all of your boards to create your drawer.


It's time to attach either the wheels or a gliding system to your drawer. Because I had them already, I used wheels that spin 360 degrees. It is easier to maneuver the drawer if your wheels will move in all directions. It's time to turn your drawer upside down and attach the wheels. I did not put the wheels out close to the edge of the drawer because I needed some clearance space for the facing board that I would attach next.


To give it a finished look, I added an old piece of fence board that I cut down to fit the front of my drawer. After sanding and cleaning the fence board, I dry-brushed it with some white chalk paint and set it aside to dry.

 Here it is before the paint.


Here it is after the paint. 

I added iron handles as a finishing touch.

Here it is under the bed, fully loaded!

A cozy place in my home office to stretch out and read, write or nap. 
Antique, true 2-inch, heart pine from "Gator House", cut for shelves and mounted with iron brackets. see Gator House post here. A small antique barn door hung on a track as my window treatment. 
And an iron candelabra, for a touch of "girly" in this rustic office space.


 A better view of the barn door window treatment.

Need some more ideas?

Follow me on my journey
Living and Celebrating Autumn All Year!
Debbie

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